Comments for http://riversdaleclocks.com/timeout Mon, 30 Mar 2009 15:46:17 -0700 http://wordpress.org/?v=2.8.6 hourly 1 Comment on Woodworking Shop Safety Tips by Charles Mullins http://riversdaleclocks.com/timeout/woodworking-shop-safety-tips//comment-page-1#comment-448 Charles Mullins Mon, 30 Mar 2009 15:46:17 +0000 http://riversdaleclocks.com/timeout/?p=362#comment-448 Mat, You are so right in emphasizing safety in the shop, especially in the use of power tools. Bad things can happen extremely fast using power tools. We must always remember that these tools are designed to CUT! Wood is hard but flesh is soft. I am mostly a self educated woodworker, learning some things the hard way for most of my life. I have had boards and cutoffs being thrown so hard that they go through the wall, furniture standing behind and across the room. I have had many table saw kick backs and one that cut off two of my left hand fingers tips. That seriously impedes your playing a musical instrument! After that incident I seriously analized what happens to cause a kick back and took measures to prevent it in the future. A splitter will help tremendously to prevent kick backs. Also feather boards are a big help. Remember to think through your operations to keep it safe. Have a Great Day! Charles Mullins Mat,

You are so right in emphasizing safety in the shop, especially in the use of power tools. Bad things can happen extremely fast using power tools. We must always remember that these tools are designed to CUT! Wood is hard but flesh is soft.

I am mostly a self educated woodworker, learning some things the hard way for most of my life. I have had boards and cutoffs being thrown so hard that they go through the wall, furniture standing behind and across the room.

I have had many table saw kick backs and one that cut off two of my left hand fingers tips. That seriously impedes your playing a musical instrument!

After that incident I seriously analized what happens to cause a kick back and took measures to prevent it in the future.

A splitter will help tremendously to prevent kick backs. Also feather boards are a big help.

Remember to think through your operations to keep it safe.

Have a Great Day!

Charles Mullins

]]> Comment on My Longcase Construction #5 Final by Charles Mullins http://riversdaleclocks.com/timeout/my-longcase-construction-5-final//comment-page-1#comment-211 Charles Mullins Fri, 26 Dec 2008 15:29:37 +0000 http://riversdaleclocks.com/timeout/?p=245#comment-211 Hello Bob. Your question is why I made the side of the hood so high. Now that's a good question. All I can say is that I saw an English clock similar to that and it just "Reached out and grabbed me"! I had that feeling that I had to build one like it someday. It's also somewhat unusual and I do love the unusual. If I weren't unusual in my thinking I would probably go out and buy a clock rather than build one. But building is the fun in it all. Thanks for the compliment. Charles Mullins Hello Bob.

Your question is why I made the side of the hood so high.

Now that’s a good question. All I can say is that I saw an English clock similar to that and it just “Reached out and grabbed me”! I had that feeling that I had to build one like it someday.

It’s also somewhat unusual and I do love the unusual. If I weren’t unusual in my thinking I would probably go out and buy a clock rather than build one. But building is the fun in it all.

Thanks for the compliment.

Charles Mullins

]]> Comment on My Longcase Construction #5 Final by Bob Holton http://riversdaleclocks.com/timeout/my-longcase-construction-5-final//comment-page-1#comment-210 Bob Holton Wed, 24 Dec 2008 17:35:56 +0000 http://riversdaleclocks.com/timeout/?p=245#comment-210 May I ask why you made the bonnet top so high behind the scrolls on the verty top ? you do beautiful work sir. Merry Christmas Bob May I ask why you made the bonnet top so high behind the scrolls on the verty top ? you do beautiful work sir. Merry Christmas Bob

]]> Comment on My Longcase Construction by Ben Odendaal http://riversdaleclocks.com/timeout/my-longcase-construction//comment-page-1#comment-189 Ben Odendaal Tue, 21 Oct 2008 15:43:22 +0000 http://riversdaleclocks.com/timeout/?p=144#comment-189 Very impressive !!!!!! Cannot wait to see the end result. Very impressive !!!!!!
Cannot wait to see the end result.

]]> Comment on How Bad Does A Clock Have To Be, Before It Is Past Repair Or Restoration? by Ben Odendaal http://riversdaleclocks.com/timeout/how-bad-does-a-clock-have-to-be-before-it-is-past-repair-or-restoration//comment-page-1#comment-187 Ben Odendaal Tue, 21 Oct 2008 15:29:39 +0000 http://riversdaleclocks.com/timeout/?p=157#comment-187 Excellent job old sport!!!!!! I would however like some ideas as to restore old Mahogany pieces.Reason being ,I managed to pick up an old Mahogany government office desk from a family member and would like to use the wood for a clock.This desk is in a bad state and was standing outside in the rain and of course the harsh South African sun for a few years.The top is all twisted and the whole desk has that familiar greyish colour. Kindly advise. Excellent job old sport!!!!!!
I would however like some ideas as to restore old Mahogany pieces.Reason being ,I managed to pick up an old Mahogany government office desk from a family member and would like to use the wood for a clock.This desk is in a bad state and was standing outside in the rain and of course the harsh South African sun for a few years.The top is all twisted and the whole desk has that familiar greyish colour.
Kindly advise.

]]> Comment on How Bad Does A Clock Have To Be, Before It Is Past Repair Or Restoration? by baza http://riversdaleclocks.com/timeout/how-bad-does-a-clock-have-to-be-before-it-is-past-repair-or-restoration//comment-page-1#comment-186 baza Sat, 18 Oct 2008 14:36:35 +0000 http://riversdaleclocks.com/timeout/?p=157#comment-186 Thanks Charles I'll see what I can do in future. Barry. Thanks Charles
I’ll see what I can do in future.

Barry.

]]> Comment on How Bad Does A Clock Have To Be, Before It Is Past Repair Or Restoration? by Charles http://riversdaleclocks.com/timeout/how-bad-does-a-clock-have-to-be-before-it-is-past-repair-or-restoration//comment-page-1#comment-185 Charles Sat, 18 Oct 2008 13:56:28 +0000 http://riversdaleclocks.com/timeout/?p=157#comment-185 This looks like a very pretty rebuild. I congradulate you on a succesful effort. I only wish the pictures were larger so I could see it better. Keep them ticking! Charles Mullins This looks like a very pretty rebuild. I congradulate you on a succesful effort. I only wish the pictures were larger so I could see it better.

Keep them ticking!

Charles Mullins

]]> Comment on Tidbits of Clock Antiques by Dolf Kamper http://riversdaleclocks.com/timeout/tidbits-of-clock-antiques//comment-page-1#comment-131 Dolf Kamper Wed, 23 Jul 2008 01:56:57 +0000 http://riversdaleclocks.com/timeout/?p=81#comment-131 What a great site. Thanks for providing all this great information. Check out our clocks at www.NorthCoastImports.com What a great site. Thanks for providing all this great information. Check out our clocks at http://www.NorthCoastImports.com

]]> Comment on Designing your own Clock Case by David Provan http://riversdaleclocks.com/timeout/designing-your-own-clock-case//comment-page-1#comment-128 David Provan Mon, 21 Jul 2008 02:16:05 +0000 http://riversdaleclocks.com/timeout/designing-your-own-clock-case/#comment-128 I've just done my first long case clock - see Barry's Blog. This was developed from photos, some ours, some from the net. Unless professionally taken, photos distort the proportions of the case. I scaled a full-size drawing from the photos, but found that I had to make many changes, both to the drawing and during construction, before the clock looked right. If you can possibly measure a similar case, I'd recommend it - even basic measurements of overall height, width and depth of elements are very useful. One little point that nearly caught me out: make sure that you have enough clearance for the weights to travel to the bottom of the clock! Mine have only about 5mm clearance at one point, and if I hadn't thought about the issue when framing up, they may not have had that. Select your movement with this in mind, as well as all the other factors. I read the recommended book after building the case. I wish I'd read it before. I’ve just done my first long case clock – see Barry’s Blog. This was developed from photos, some ours, some from the net. Unless professionally taken, photos distort the proportions of the case. I scaled a full-size drawing from the photos, but found that I had to make many changes, both to the drawing and during construction, before the clock looked right. If you can possibly measure a similar case, I’d recommend it – even basic measurements of overall height, width and depth of elements are very useful.

One little point that nearly caught me out: make sure that you have enough clearance for the weights to travel to the bottom of the clock! Mine have only about 5mm clearance at one point, and if I hadn’t thought about the issue when framing up, they may not have had that. Select your movement with this in mind, as well as all the other factors.

I read the recommended book after building the case. I wish I’d read it before.

]]> Comment on The Old Clock Makers by Aaron http://riversdaleclocks.com/timeout/the-old-clock-makers-were-they-better-craftsmen//comment-page-1#comment-123 Aaron Sun, 06 Jul 2008 22:30:53 +0000 http://riversdaleclocks.com/timeout/the-old-clock-makers-were-they-better-craftsmen/#comment-123 I couldn't understand some parts of this article _Clock_Makers |, but I guess I just need to check some more resources regarding this, because it sounds interesting. I couldn’t understand some parts of this article _Clock_Makers |, but I guess I just need to check some more resources regarding this, because it sounds interesting.

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